˙The use of preservatives in natural bodycare products has been a source of controversy for a
number of years. This article will focus on the most contentious of the preservative groups -
parabens.
A paraben is part of a group of chemicals called esters (esters occur when an alcohol meets an
acid) , used by cosmetic companies for many years and have been considered generally safe. Using
parabens is a cost effective way to preserve cosmetics with a low risk of odor and a change to the
texture of the product. It works as an anti-microbial agent, preventing bacteria and mold from
getting into products. The most common forms are: methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben and
butylparaben. Parabens can also be found in combinations such as Phenonip and Germaben.
Manufacturers usually add 0.1% - 1% to their formulations.
However, there has been recent concerns surrounding the use of parabens in cosmetics. Most of
this controversy stems from a study that showed higher estrogenic activity in women who had breast
cancer. The assumption was that using products that had parabens (such as deodorants and lotions) on
areas with thinner skin (underarms) lead to the cancer.
In subsequent studies (including one by the American Cancer Society), have shown this to not be
true. According to their website "There is no good scientific evidence to support this claim. The
American Cancer Society is not aware of any strong epidemiologic studies reporting a statistical
link between breast cancer risk and antiperspirant use."
For manufacturers who are concerned about the use of parabens, but want to use a product with
proven effectiveness, I would recommend Phenoxyethanol - also known commercially as Optiphen.
Phenoxyethanol can be added to formulations the same way you would add parabens. Optiphen also works
as an anti-microbial agent and also does not release formaldehyde.
As consumers become more aware about ingredients in cosmetics, the marketplace is responding by
seeking out better and more conscious products. For the manufacturer, it is a matter of answering
customer demand. Hopefully, this is only the beginning of research into safer ways of making and
preserving cosmetics.
